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	<title>PorchSide Ecology &#187; soil</title>
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	<description>Living a life of abundance - edible landscapes, environmental regeneration</description>
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		<title>An easy pill to swallow: the joy of fresh medicine</title>
		<link>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/10/16/the-joy-of-fresh-medicine/</link>
		<comments>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/10/16/the-joy-of-fresh-medicine/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2009 02:17:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Herbs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plant Medicine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[edible flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garlic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[greens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[honey]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[local food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[medicine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mint]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nutrients]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quinoa]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sage]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[thyme]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://porchsideecology.com/abundance/?p=495</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
<p>It’s that time of year again. Starting last Friday, my yearly throat cold came a-haunting as it normally does with the shift from summer to fall. Usually I make small adjustments to my diet to eliminate “troublemakers” like dairy, but this year I went more on the offensive. I made my medicine. And it sure [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 330px; float: left;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PBfAvxIAeKI/SedzrKqUpVI/AAAAAAAAAY4/yP3pw5o5sCc/IMG_3318.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_2" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PBfAvxIAeKI/SedzrKqUpVI/AAAAAAAAAY4/yP3pw5o5sCc/IMG_3318.JPG?imgmax=320" alt="" width="320" height="240" id="shashin_thumb_image_2" title="" /></a></div>
<p>It’s that time of year again. Starting last Friday, my yearly throat cold came a-haunting as it normally does with the shift from summer to fall. Usually I make small adjustments to my diet to eliminate “troublemakers” like dairy, but this year I went more on the offensive. I made my medicine. And it sure was good. First I created a nutrient rich chicken broth with lots of garlic, I used that to make a quinoa soup with all sorts of little amendments from the garden, garnished with a selection of greens and topped with some violets, just because. Throughout the day I made a point to make various herbal teas from fresh herbs around the garden: mint, sage, thyme. Occasionally I would throw small amounts of greens, like kale into these teas. Added some honey, and took my medicine. Needless to say, it was a pleasure to do so.</p>
<p>I would love to say that I was cured immediately by the bounty of my garden and my amazing skills of food preparation. But sadly, the symptoms reached their usual level of discomfort and I did get sicker through the weekend. Sunday night I was kept awake by an intense cough.</p>
<p>But.</p>
<p>Now, it could just be coincidence, a one-off event….but….my recovery was much quicker. By late Monday, the cough had pretty much disappeared. In the past, my yearly affliction would usually develop into a lingering cough and sore throat sometimes lasting as long as two weeks.</p>
<p>So sure, it’s purely anecdotal. But this whole year I have been making and taking my medicine and creating a diverse nutrient foundation for my body to draw on in order to operate fluidly and abundantly. Just like creating nutrient-rich living soil is the foundation for garden health, creating a nutrient-rich diet is a foundation for health in the body. And it is so much fun! Processed food has been dropping steadily out of my diet. Not because I am being disciplined, but simply because I don’t find flavored cardboard to be all that appealing anymore. My body has learned (remembered, really) that there is much more to be easily gained from munching on some leaves, than can be scavenged from the wasteland of processed food. In fact, grocery stores are starting to feel like fields of desolation and desperation: a circus of brightly lit packages hell bent on selling salt, sugar, cheap fat, and denuded carbohydrates to the bedazzled shoppers.</p>
<p>Ok, so I wax dramatic. I used to have a curious attraction to grocery stores. There was something meditative about going through the aisles, in looking at the organized arrangements of brightly colored produce, the vast array of foodstuffs. But lately I’ve started to feel like a monkey in a cage when I walk into the glaring arena of food consumerism. I can only eat what’s offered, and most of it is worthless, or at best marginally useful to my body.</p>
<p>I still don’t have a solution to the meat dilemma, but at least I can rely on the bustle of the farmer’s market and the chaos of my own garden to provide me with the fresh produce I need. The interaction with people, the touch of living plants and the smell of rich, healthy soil: these are good healing medicines as well. It is delightful, joyful medicine that I wish more people could experience. Hopefully I can begin to share it more with others, and they can get a glimmer of what they might be missing out on.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Creating Pockets of Fertility</title>
		<link>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/10/03/creating-pockets-of-fertility/</link>
		<comments>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/10/03/creating-pockets-of-fertility/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Oct 2009 19:32:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ecological Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Edible Landscapes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[broccoli]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chives]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fertility]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kale]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nutrients]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[perennial]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[polyculture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil blocks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walking onion]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://porchsideecology.com/abundance/?p=476</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Holy Rapini! I didn&#8217;t like the taste so I let it bloom and it put on quite an impressive show

<p>An experiment in quickly creating patches of deep, abundant, living soil and long term fertility in the organic garden. </p>
<p>I had a serendipitous moment this morning. It was still pitch dark outside, but I woke up [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 250px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-plMkdshl3wA/Scub5byCuPI/AAAAAAAAAXE/J40g6OilsiM/IMG_3128.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_14" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-plMkdshl3wA/Scub5byCuPI/AAAAAAAAAXE/J40g6OilsiM/IMG_3128.JPG?imgmax=320" alt="Holy Rapini! I didn't like the taste so I let it bloom and it put on quite an impressive show" width="240" height="320" id="shashin_thumb_image_14" title="Holy Rapini! I didn't like the taste so I let it bloom and it put on quite an impressive show" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">Holy Rapini! I didn&#8217;t like the taste so I let it bloom and it put on quite an impressive show</div>
</div>
<p><strong>An experiment in quickly creating patches of deep, abundant, living soil and long term fertility in the organic garden. </strong></p>
<p>I had a serendipitous moment this morning. It was still pitch dark outside, but I woke up and couldn&#8217;t go back to sleep, my mind was churning away at all sorts of stuff, some important, some annoyingly trivial (WHY am I awake again?). But ultimately my roving brain pulled together a few puzzles out of the nether and tied them together: there were some buckets of food scraps that needed to be dealt with, some seedlings in soil blocks that probably wanted to get started in real soil, and a bunch of information on soil, fertility, nutrient cycles that I wanted to put to use. All of that suddenly synergized into a darn good little idea. Fertility pockets.</p>
<p>First some background.</p>
<p>A while back my mom and I were talking about how we dealt with compost. At the time I was all pumped on aerated compost and how it was possible to create a real rich compost in less than three weeks (which involves almost daily turning). She thought it sounded interesting, but said she was going to stick to her method which was to simply throw her food scraps in a hole in the ground for a while then cover it up with soil when the hole was full. She said that it broke down remarkably fast without much effort on her part. I tried the aerobic compost route and did in fact achieve a nice rich compost within a month. But the process always felt&#8230;.off. It was awesome to create soil so quickly, but I knew that with each pile turn I was exposing all these microbes to the air which were then going on a feeding frenzy and drying out, dying, and releasing who knows what into kind of carbon into the air. Then what happens with this compost? It usually gets top dressed onto soil of lesser quality. They call this feeding the soil&#8230;and to some extent it is, but what a waste! Here is this unbelievably rich soil that has been created, and it gets thrown on top? The most precious part of that soil is the amazing amount life that is now living in it. By throwing it on top, the moisture and rich life will die off, killed by sun and eroded by wind. So in the back of my mind the aerobic, compost turning method seemed to have it&#8217;s own set of issues, on top of being time/energy intensive. Without adequate moisture and mulching, that effort of creating such beautiful thriving soil simply goes to waste.</p>
<p>To go a little further into the moisture story, I want to pass on one of the most fascinating stories that I heard recently. I heard it at my advanced permaculture design course in July with Robyn Francis. I THINK this was work that Robyn Francis was part of. In India recently they did a special planting method for a forest plantation of various trees. The method was to dig the hole for the tree, fill the hole with water, let the water soak in, fill the hole with water a second time, let it soak in again then plant the tree and (if I remember correctly) water it in. I&#8217;m not sure how heavily the trees were mulched with organic matter, but I do remember the area around the tree was mulched with rocks which would capture moisture from the air. That region was hit by a pretty severe drought that year and the trees were not watered at all beyond the initial planting. However, they only lost a handful (literally) of trees from among thousands. Between the mulch and the moisture already embedded in the soil from the double deep watering, the trees had enough to survive.</p>
<p>So, right, back to these buckets of goopy, stinky food scraps that I had collected from a downtown vegan restaurant. The scraps were intended for worm bins at Veggielution, but for a while now the worm bins have been overloaded and pretty foul smelling. So I needed to figure out a way that I could use these food scraps while Veggielution volunteers built a couple more worm bins. So this morning I realized that I could use all of that concentrated, nutritious goodness to create little areas of abundant fertility within my garden, which I am calling Fertility Pockets.</p>
<p>They are nothing complex, nor really anything new, but when I see how they fit into the grand (hah) scheme of the garden, I think it is an elegant solution that requires a one time soil disturbance with long lasting rewards. The basic method is to dig a reasonably deep hole, take a nutrient soup, (like the buckets of food scraps, or anaerobic buckets of compost that have been fermenting in their own juice, yum!, or possibly the weeds that you have submerged under water to kill off), and fill the hole with layers of soup, carbonaceous material and soil (a layered compost basically) and cover the hole with the remaining soil. This will form a small mound which should be planted into immediately with something that would enjoy a rich bacteria-dominated soil (I used kale and broccoli).</p>
<p>This Fertility Pocket method is an experiment and might have some unexpected results, but based on a lot of reading and observation of soil in my own garden here is what I expect to happen. By filling a hole with organic matter high in moisture content and nutrient rich water, in most soils this moisture will very slowly leach out over time. This water that drains into the surrounding area will be high in nutrients and organic matter. The organic matter in the hole will slowly decompose over the following months, functioning as a time release fertilizer and creating an abundant, deep, moist, living soil. The layering of organic matter and soil distributes soil microbes evenly throughout the hole and creates aeration so the soil can breath. As long as this soil is not disturbed and is well shaded by plants and/or mulch, the nutrients will continue to cycle between the soil and the plants who will eagerly send their roots into the newly created treasure trove. By doing just a modest hole, rather than say a double-dug swath or a rototilled patch, this allows everything around the hole to remain undisturbed. Mycelia, microbes, worms and plant roots can all start to move in as moisture radiates out and as nutrients are broken down and made available.</p>
<p>Here was the process I followed this morning:</p>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 298px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Wnge77HmB48/SiQGC_yEOEI/AAAAAAAAAuk/pdhUtl4i2IQ/IMG_3680.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_15" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Wnge77HmB48/SiQGC_yEOEI/AAAAAAAAAuk/pdhUtl4i2IQ/IMG_3680.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="" width="288" height="216" id="shashin_thumb_image_15" title="" /></a></div>
<p>I dug about a foot down and hit a firm layer of rocky sub-soil.</p>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 298px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-uasVayNYCrk/SmKHqAp15eI/AAAAAAAABDg/8aLgQZbxTvI/IMG_4527.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_16" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-uasVayNYCrk/SmKHqAp15eI/AAAAAAAABDg/8aLgQZbxTvI/IMG_4527.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="Quinoa" width="288" height="216" id="shashin_thumb_image_16" title="Quinoa" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">Quinoa</div>
</div>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 226px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4pPL2clrhpI/Sq3UJb3yiWI/AAAAAAAABOE/oPolzCZtFMk/IMG_6479.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_17" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-4pPL2clrhpI/Sq3UJb3yiWI/AAAAAAAABOE/oPolzCZtFMk/IMG_6479.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="quinoa harvest!" width="216" height="288" id="shashin_thumb_image_17" title="quinoa harvest!" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">quinoa harvest!</div>
</div>
<p>I widened the hole from there until it formed a rough bowl that would hold two buckets worth of soup plus some layers of soil.</p>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 226px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rvXCtjNQ-JQ/Sq3UOxWj7oI/AAAAAAAABOI/WI_PZ9ycujg/IMG_6476.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_18" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-rvXCtjNQ-JQ/Sq3UOxWj7oI/AAAAAAAABOI/WI_PZ9ycujg/IMG_6476.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="drying quinoa seed heads" width="216" height="288" id="shashin_thumb_image_18" title="drying quinoa seed heads" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">drying quinoa seed heads</div>
</div>
<p>I threw some weeds in down at the bottom to decompose. The bottom of the hole is probably going to be pretty anaerobic for a week or so (just a guess) and it is deep enough so that even if the seeds do not rot away, they are too deep to surface.</p>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 226px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-mZcf0l1Yzwg/SZ-AsdOyyqI/AAAAAAAAALA/Xwc6paKSOf0/IMG_2300.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_19" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-mZcf0l1Yzwg/SZ-AsdOyyqI/AAAAAAAAALA/Xwc6paKSOf0/IMG_2300.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="backyard overview" width="216" height="288" id="shashin_thumb_image_19" title="backyard overview" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">backyard overview</div>
</div>
<p>I poured some food scraps on top of the weeds and added a layer of soil. The soupier the better for this part I think.</p>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 226px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bp8FSrNMUls/SZ-AsraELII/AAAAAAAAALI/f764MV6qg4A/IMG_2302.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_20" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-bp8FSrNMUls/SZ-AsraELII/AAAAAAAAALI/f764MV6qg4A/IMG_2302.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="6 month old hugelkultur bed lined with bamboo" width="216" height="288" id="shashin_thumb_image_20" title="6 month old hugelkultur bed lined with bamboo" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">6 month old hugelkultur bed lined with bamboo</div>
</div>
<p>Added dried out corn stalks and dried grass and other carbon rich stuff.<br />
Added another layer of food scraps (by now the mixture was pretty much a stinky bowl of mud soup) and the rest of the soil</p>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 226px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-I7vZjHVbY6M/SZ-AtHS1flI/AAAAAAAAALQ/xqRCphwVhMw/IMG_2561.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_21" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-I7vZjHVbY6M/SZ-AtHS1flI/AAAAAAAAALQ/xqRCphwVhMw/IMG_2561.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="Bronze Arrow lettuce (California heirloom)" width="216" height="288" id="shashin_thumb_image_21" title="Bronze Arrow lettuce (California heirloom)" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">Bronze Arrow lettuce (California heirloom)</div>
</div>
<p>The remaining soil should form a mound. I planted garlic chives, Egyptian walking onions, broccoli, and kale into the mound. The annual brassicas are for immediate capture of whatever nutrients are readily available, the chives and onions will stick around to anchor the soil while I decide what other perennials to add to the mix. I am not too concerned about nutrient lost though, because there is a neighboring maturing broccoli and fruit trees that will probably send their roots over to check out the moisture and the nutrient cocktail.</p>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 298px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8Ei6RXA56gk/SZ-AtZnFSSI/AAAAAAAAALY/V2U8zDVh5ZE/IMG_2566.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_22" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-8Ei6RXA56gk/SZ-AtZnFSSI/AAAAAAAAALY/V2U8zDVh5ZE/IMG_2566.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="the berry box: five bare root raspberry canes (Carolina) planted in the box, with strawberries planted in the holes. Blueberry (Bluecrop) planted in peat mound next to box. This planting is a bit risky as there are a lot of leaves in the box mixed in with soil and compost. They could compact and prevent water....or they could decompose and retain a lot of water, we'll see." width="288" height="216" id="shashin_thumb_image_22" title="the berry box: five bare root raspberry canes (Carolina) planted in the box, with strawberries planted in the holes. Blueberry (Bluecrop) planted in peat mound next to box. This planting is a bit risky as there are a lot of leaves in the box mixed in with soil and compost. They could compact and prevent water....or they could decompose and retain a lot of water, we'll see." /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">the berry box: five bare root raspberry canes (Carolina) planted in the box, with strawberries planted in the holes. Blueberry (Bluecrop) planted in peat mound next to box. This planting is a bit risky as there are a lot of leaves in the box mixed in with soil and compost. They could compact and prevent water&#8230;.or they could decompose and retain a lot of water, we&#8217;ll see.</div>
</div>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 226px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-KEjI7uMsEkE/SZ-At0n4cvI/AAAAAAAAALg/KH12oHHhKzQ/IMG_2571.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_23" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-KEjI7uMsEkE/SZ-At0n4cvI/AAAAAAAAALg/KH12oHHhKzQ/IMG_2571.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="cool season bouquet (fava and rapini). The rapini is too bitter to eat so I let it flower" width="216" height="288" id="shashin_thumb_image_23" title="cool season bouquet (fava and rapini). The rapini is too bitter to eat so I let it flower" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">cool season bouquet (fava and rapini). The rapini is too bitter to eat so I let it flower</div>
</div>
<p>As a final touch I threw small handfuls of Azomite down to add additional nutrients and trace minerals. Since this is not a renewable source of fertility, I put it at the top to be watered in over time. My hope is that as the plants and the soil organisms kick into gear they will trap most of these trace nutrients and prevent them from leaching beyond the pocket.</p>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 298px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-m67PSBVMspg/SZ-AuXH4TAI/AAAAAAAAALo/zCcFqsMxKls/IMG_2684.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_24" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-m67PSBVMspg/SZ-AuXH4TAI/AAAAAAAAALo/zCcFqsMxKls/IMG_2684.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="I HOPE this is Hypsizygus ulmarius Garden Patch mycelium" width="288" height="216" id="shashin_thumb_image_24" title="I HOPE this is Hypsizygus ulmarius Garden Patch mycelium" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">I HOPE this is Hypsizygus ulmarius Garden Patch mycelium</div>
</div>
<p>Overall the process took me less than 45 minutes and it could have a positive payout for years, especially if the soil remains undisturbed (no tilling!), mulch is added as a top dressing and perennials are planted into the pocket after the broccoli harvest. If I plant a perennial polyculture around the pocket, the nutrients could cycle within that small ecosystem indefinitely. I&#8217;ll be doing a few more of these in the garden and will report back on the results after the pockets have had the chance to break down and the plant patches mature over the following year.</p>
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		<title>Recommended Reading – Edible Forest Gardens, Vol I</title>
		<link>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/09/07/recommended-reading-%e2%80%93-edible-forest-gardens-vol-i/</link>
		<comments>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/09/07/recommended-reading-%e2%80%93-edible-forest-gardens-vol-i/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Sep 2009 15:30:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Ecological Design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Edible Landscapes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Forests]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[landscape design]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Permaculture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[biomimicry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[edible landscaping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[microbes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mushrooms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://porchsideecology.com/abundance/?p=428</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p></p>
<p>Title: Edible Forest Gardens – Volume One: Vision and Theory
Authors: Dave Jacke with Eric Toensmeier
Publisher: Chelsea Green</p>
<p>My Experience:</p>
<p>I am a pretty voracious and quick reader, but it took me several months to work my way through Volume I. The writing style of the authors is very readable, and the content is fascinating and information rich, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://www.edibleforestgardens.com/about_book" style="border=0;"><img src="http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/image_bookset.gif" alt="Book Cover" title="Book Cover" width="240" height="285" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-441" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Title:</strong> Edible Forest Gardens – Volume One: Vision and Theory<br />
<strong>Authors:</strong> Dave Jacke with Eric Toensmeier<br />
<strong>Publisher: </strong>Chelsea Green</p>
<p><strong>My Experience:</strong></p>
<p>I am a pretty voracious and quick reader, but it took me several months to work my way through Volume I. The writing style of the authors is very readable, and the content is fascinating and information rich, but as the title indicates it is a book on food forest THEORY, which means diving deeply into ecological theory and forest structure. While reading Volume I, I found myself often distracted by other, more “hands-on” literature, so I would read a few chapters of Volume I and then dive off for a brief affair with another book, only to return to Forest Gardens a few weeks later to take on another chapter. It took me a while to get through it but I am deeply, deeply grateful to the authors for putting together such an incredible resource. I think they wove a good balance between discussing the broader theory on forest dynamics, while zooming in to particular topics, such as vegetation layers, soil, roots, etc. I would highly recommend this book to those that are really serious about designing their landscapes, farms, or acreage as an ecosystem. It is a wealth of information and the authors have done an excellent job of providing the theoretical framework behind edible food forest design. For those of you that have a more casual approach to gardening and landscaping, or for those that just want some practical examples up front, Volume I might be more than you want to take on. I am just starting to delve into Volume II, which puts theory into practice and might be more geared towards folks that just want to read some instructions and dive in. I&#8217;ll be sure to report back when I have completed Volume II.</p>
<p><strong>What I enjoyed:</strong></p>
<p><strong>Chapter 5 &#8220;Structures of the Underground Economy&#8221;:</strong> This chapter is by far the best thing I have read about soil, roots, nutrient cycles and fertility. It provides a broad scale view of the whole “underground economy”, yet also packs in an incredible amount of specific information on the different “engines” of the economy (microbes, roots, fungi, etc). It condenses much of the information that I have read over several books, articles, etc into one integrated framework without watering down or excluding vital information. It is truly a remarkable source of information on the world beneath our feet. </p>
<p><strong>Analysis of Existing Food Forests:</strong> The authors take three existing food forests (one of which is Robert Hart’s forest garden) and they offer respectful critiques on what is working in the system, and where things could be better. It was nice to have the concrete examples to reference and anchor the theoretical and conceptual information that they were laying out.</p>
<p><strong>Rethinking invasive species.</strong> There were two large sidebars devoted to the analysis and discussion of “invasion biology” that broadened my perspective on the contentious issues surrounding invasive species. They criticize the tendency to blame the individual “invader” and instead encourage a deeper analysis of what root causes allowed the “invasion” in the first place (human disruption might be a good first start!). </p>
<p><strong>Everything Else! </strong>There is so much information in this book, and even though it gets pretty deep into theory and concepts, it is written at a level that is accessible to your average (but determined) reader. </p>
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		<title>Letting things go</title>
		<link>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/03/26/letting-things-go/</link>
		<comments>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/03/26/letting-things-go/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Mar 2009 16:22:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Edible Landscapes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food Forests]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[basil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[biomimicry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mulch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Permaculture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pests]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[polinators]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rapini]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tomato]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://porchsideecology.com/abundance/?p=145</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Holy Rapini! I didn&#8217;t like the taste so I let it bloom and it put on quite an impressive show

<p>So I pretty much just abandoned my garden for two weeks to fend for itself as I went off to the Permaculture Design Course and certification at  OAEC. The course opening was unexpected, forcing me [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 226px; float: left;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-plMkdshl3wA/Scub5byCuPI/AAAAAAAAAXE/J40g6OilsiM/IMG_3128.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_26" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-plMkdshl3wA/Scub5byCuPI/AAAAAAAAAXE/J40g6OilsiM/IMG_3128.JPG?imgmax=288" alt="Holy Rapini! I didn't like the taste so I let it bloom and it put on quite an impressive show" width="216" height="288" id="shashin_thumb_image_26" title="Holy Rapini! I didn't like the taste so I let it bloom and it put on quite an impressive show" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">Holy Rapini! I didn&#8217;t like the taste so I let it bloom and it put on quite an impressive show</div>
</div>
<p>So I pretty much just abandoned my garden for two weeks to fend for itself as I went off to the Permaculture Design Course and certification at <a href="http://www.oaec.org"> OAEC</a>. The course opening was unexpected, forcing me to throw some immature tomato and basil starts into the ground without much hope of their survival. The weather had been heating up and I returned to find much of what I expected, dried and cracking ground in some places (those without mulch or plant cover&#8211;go figure!), and most of the starts had indeed died or were eaten. However, out of about ten starts two tomatos remained. I&#8217;m pretty positive that those two will go on to do wonderful things because they have proved themselves to be tough characters: resistant to pests and able to handle an early planting. They are great candidates for seed saving.</p>
<p>One of the nice surprises was to find my garden flourishing in most other aspects. I am quite impressed by this wonderful show from my rapini (broccoli raab) plant. It has been going strong like this now for over a month. I&#8217;m sure if I keep cutting it back it will continue to flower well into early summer. The funny thing about the rapini is that it is way too bitter for my taste, but I kept it around anyways because I didn&#8217;t have anything planned for the area it is in and I enjoyed the first small blooms that it put out. Now I&#8217;m quite glad that I chose to let aesthetic win out over functional because it is a blast of color in a garden that is looking kind of drab right now. It requires no care and is providing function beyond the food that I would have liked to enjoy: pollinators have been visiting it, it is providing food for the soil food web and if I wanted to, I could also take advantage of its shade and cover to protect sensitive starts.</p>
<p>While I will still probably do a fair amount of coddling for certain plants, I have been leaning more towards the approach that I see patterned in the natural world. May the best plant win. While this might mean the loss of a lot of plants up front, ultimately I will have a garden that requires significantly less work yet yields roughly the same amount of food. This sounds so obvious when typing it, yet if you read pretty much any how-to-grow guide for vegetables, the coddle effect is in full force: fertilize, weed, pest manage, blah blah blah. This is where burnt-out gardeners and farmers are created, as they seek to serve plants that really probably shouldn&#8217;t be alive (did I just say that?). For me, I hope it becomes more of a dialogue as I seek to guide my garden towards being able to handle the semi-arid realities of my region. There will always be a few choice plants that I coddle because I love, but when droughts and water rations threaten, how nice it would be to sit back with the assurance that I will probably still have food because I have plants that survive through a broad range of conditions.</p>
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		<title>Aerated Compost Teas</title>
		<link>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/02/28/aerated-compost-teas/</link>
		<comments>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/02/28/aerated-compost-teas/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Feb 2009 20:40:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Edible Landscapes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Lab]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bacteria]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[compost]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[compost tea]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[disease]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fungi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[microbes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nettle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://porchsideecology.com/abundance/?p=120</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p>After reading the compost tea section of &#8220;Teaming with Microbes&#8221;, a book I highly recommended, their DIY compost tea setup was simple enough that I decided to try it out. At the end of the post I will include pics of my setup which is super easy, relatively cheap (very cheap when compared to commercial [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After reading the compost tea section of &#8220;Teaming with Microbes&#8221;, a book I highly recommended, their DIY compost tea setup was simple enough that I decided to try it out. At the end of the post I will include pics of my setup which is super easy, relatively cheap (very cheap when compared to commercial stuff) and produces a completely filtered compost tea ready for application with a sprayer or watering can. But first lets talk a little about actively aerated compost teas (AACT).</p>
<p>If you&#8217;re an organic gardener, of course you know the benefits of compost, whose praises have been sung far and wide. The smell of fresh, healthy, finished compost is one of my favorite smells in the world. That earthy aroma in a good compost is the smell of billions of microbes going about their microscopic business as they break down the organic matter and feast on it (and each other!). After reading &#8220;Teaming with Microbes&#8221; I now have have a vastly new appreciation for the mind blowing, complex ecosystems of microbes that exist in our gardens. They live and die by the trillions within the soil, at the roots of plants (rhizosphere) and on plant leaves (phyllosphere). A well aerated compost is shock full of these guys.</p>
<p>With an actively aerated compost tea, compost is soaked in water and aerated with a commercial aerator or other aerating device like an aquarium pump. The constant movement of the bubbles both provides air to the microbes in the compost and teases them out of the filter and/or soil medium so they can multiply within the tea solution. A good aerated compost tea is like putting compost on steroids (very briefly &#8211; and, you know, in a healthy way).  In AACT the bacterial population can explode from a mere 1 billion per tsp to 4 billion per tsp. Since it is aerated, these are still the same kinds of organisms that we encourage when we build an aerated compost pile. Of course, AACT is NOT compost because it doesn&#8217;t contain the copious amounts organic matter that compost does and so all these happy microbes living in your AACT need a place to go and eat before they start to eat themselves (yikes!). To feed them, let them go to town in your yard. The authors report that it is virtually impossible to over apply compost tea. Even if you watered your plants ONLY with a AACT, the microbes will adjust to the amount of available nutrients on the leaves and in the soil. It will not burn roots or leaves and they state &#8220;it will only help increase the diversity of microbial populations in your soil&#8221;. They recommend a twice a year application, but if you really wanted to go crazy you could apply AACT as often as you water.</p>
<p>The reported benefits of aerated compost teas are numerous as the folks at Soil Food Web Inc eagerly demonstrate in this <a href="http://www.soilfoodweb.com/03_about_us/approach_pgs/c_03a_aerated_tea.html"> article</a>. Because the tea is so rich in microbes, it is a good for the restoration of soil after chemicals have been used on it. Even synthetic fertilizers can be devastating to the life in your soil, so frequent use of compost tea is great for transitioning to organic gardening. An added benefit of compost teas is that they can be applied to leaves. So while compost can only be used directly to improve the diversity of the rhizosphere (roots), compost tea can be used improve the diversity of the phyllosphere (leaves) as well as the rhizosphere. Aerated compost teas are also reported to help suppress disease, but unfortunately not a ton of study has been done on aerated compost teas. I recently read a crotchety <a href="http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Compost%20tea%20again.pdf"> article </a> (pdf) about the &#8220;myth&#8221; of disease suppression. Something isn&#8217;t a myth until proven false, so I prefer &#8220;unproven hypothesis&#8221; since at this point in time, a thorough study has not been done particularly on the disease suppressing abilities of compost tea. Which means we have to experiment and judge for ourselves at this point. So lets get to it! At the very basic level we know that healthy plants repel insects, and healthy environments promote healthy plants and healthy environments are ones with lots of soil diversity&#8230;&#8230;.ergo&#8230;&#8230;AACT is a good tool in your gardening tool box. With each application of a compost tea is the chance that another lucky beneficial microbe will find their unique place in your garden ecosystem.</p>
<p>A few guidelines for brewing and applying teas:</p>
<ul>
<li>For foliar application, apply to both sides of the leaves if possible</li>
<li>Apply it in the morning or evening as the heat and wind of the day will reduce the microbe&#8217;s chance to get a foothold</li>
<li>Use aerated compost tea immediately after brewing as the populations will begin to die off once aeration stops.</li>
<li>Brew your tea at room temperature, colder temperatures inhibit growth, hot temperatures fry microbes.</li>
<li>A good aerated tea should be coffee brown and have a rich earthy smell.</li>
<li>The height of microbial growth is between 24 and 36 hours.</li>
</ul>
<p>A simple starting recipe for a five gallon batch is non-chlorinated water, 2 cups compost, 2 tablespoons of molasses, fruit juice, cane syrup or maple syrup (to get the party started). To de-chlorinate water, let your aerator run in the water for about 2 hours before adding tea ingredients. If you have a recipe that you would like to share or have had obvious success with compost tea, please comment below. I am just beginning and would love to know more. When posting a recipe, if you could include a little detail on why you use that particular recipe that would be awesome.</p>
<p>Here is my simple setup: all told it cost me maybe $30 and produces more than enough tea for my 1/4 acre yard. It took me, mmmm, 15 minutes to assemble and get my first brew bubbling.<br />
1 Aquarium pump (Tetra Whisper for 40 gallon aquarium &#8211; probably overkill, but hey I want bubbles!)<br />
3 feet of clear 1/4&#8243; tubing<br />
2 feet of 1/4&#8243; soaker hose (for drip systems)<br />
1 3 prong 1/4&#8243; tee for drip systems, used to put the soaker hose in a hoop<br />
1 5 gallon bucket<br />
1 pair of Size Q pantyhose</p>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 250px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PK7Daq15IjE/Salt1rGUvmI/AAAAAAAAAQc/wKCXgs4nB7c/IMG_2727.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_32" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-PK7Daq15IjE/Salt1rGUvmI/AAAAAAAAAQc/wKCXgs4nB7c/IMG_2727.JPG?imgmax=320" alt="The supplies. 5 gallon bucket, aquarium pump, 3 feet of clear 1/4&quot; tubing, a circle of 1/4&quot; drip soaker hose, and Size Q pantyhose (not pictured here)" width="240" height="320" id="shashin_thumb_image_32" title="The supplies. 5 gallon bucket, aquarium pump, 3 feet of clear 1/4&quot; tubing, a circle of 1/4&quot; drip soaker hose, and Size Q pantyhose (not pictured here)" /></a><span class="shashin_caption">The supplies. 5 gallon bucket, aquarium pump, 3 feet of clear 1/4&quot; tubing, a circle of 1/4&quot; drip soaker hose, and Size Q pantyhose (not pictured here)</span>
<div class="highslide-caption">The supplies. 5 gallon bucket, aquarium pump, 3 feet of clear 1/4&quot; tubing, a circle of 1/4&quot; drip soaker hose, and Size Q pantyhose (not pictured here)</div>
</div>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 250px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0p82yVHYV8o/Salt45M7BJI/AAAAAAAAAQk/kZ5-sXNfKqU/IMG_2729.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_33" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-0p82yVHYV8o/Salt45M7BJI/AAAAAAAAAQk/kZ5-sXNfKqU/IMG_2729.JPG?imgmax=320" alt="The soaker hose ring inside the bucket. Anchored by a brick. Duct tape would work just as well." width="240" height="320" id="shashin_thumb_image_33" title="The soaker hose ring inside the bucket. Anchored by a brick. Duct tape would work just as well." /></a><span class="shashin_caption">The soaker hose ring inside the bucket. Anchored by a brick. Duct tape would work just as well.</span>
<div class="highslide-caption">The soaker hose ring inside the bucket. Anchored by a brick. Duct tape would work just as well.</div>
</div>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 330px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-f2vScwubc1g/Salt6Qud3PI/AAAAAAAAAQs/wabIRzDjnWc/IMG_2732.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_34" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-f2vScwubc1g/Salt6Qud3PI/AAAAAAAAAQs/wabIRzDjnWc/IMG_2732.JPG?imgmax=320" alt="de-chlorinating the water, run for a couple hours to prep the water." width="320" height="240" id="shashin_thumb_image_34" title="de-chlorinating the water, run for a couple hours to prep the water." /></a><span class="shashin_caption">de-chlorinating the water, run for a couple hours to prep the water.</span>
<div class="highslide-caption">de-chlorinating the water, run for a couple hours to prep the water.</div>
</div>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 250px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-hniY_JwxKWc/Salt7CbJixI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/nBW5dKQhj5U/IMG_2736.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_35" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-hniY_JwxKWc/Salt7CbJixI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/nBW5dKQhj5U/IMG_2736.JPG?imgmax=320" alt="All dressed up and nowhere to go! Finished compost is put in the legs of the pantyhose(Size Q)." width="240" height="320" id="shashin_thumb_image_35" title="All dressed up and nowhere to go! Finished compost is put in the legs of the pantyhose(Size Q)." /></a><span class="shashin_caption">All dressed up and nowhere to go! Finished compost is put in the legs of the pantyhose(Size Q).</span>
<div class="highslide-caption">All dressed up and nowhere to go! Finished compost is put in the legs of the pantyhose(Size Q).</div>
</div>
<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 330px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-EJqmyS4OjW0/SaltzEPNymI/AAAAAAAAAQU/1MTwYixVSDI/IMG_2725.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_36" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-EJqmyS4OjW0/SaltzEPNymI/AAAAAAAAAQU/1MTwYixVSDI/IMG_2725.JPG?imgmax=320" alt="24 hours later, finished tea. 30 seconds ago, the foam was at the rim (a good sign!)" width="320" height="240" id="shashin_thumb_image_36" title="24 hours later, finished tea. 30 seconds ago, the foam was at the rim (a good sign!)" /></a><span class="shashin_caption">24 hours later, finished tea. 30 seconds ago, the foam was at the rim (a good sign!)</span>
<div class="highslide-caption">24 hours later, finished tea. 30 seconds ago, the foam was at the rim (a good sign!)</div>
</div>
<p>The tea pictured above is my first mix, called Kablooey! tea. I used fresh stinging nettle, worm castings, finished compost and orange juice.</p>
<p>The method above is a filtered application for use as a foliar spray and topical soil drench. There are other methods that include a lot of organic matter and could be a beneficial soil additive. For some more ideas, check this <a href="http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/organic/2002082739009975.html">article</a> out.</p>
<p>Here is an interesting <a href="http://davesgarden.com/community/blogs/t/frostweed/5072/">post </a> of someone using a couple different compost tea methods to try and get weakened plants to buck up.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Keeping seed diversity afloat &#8211; Arks and RAFTs</title>
		<link>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/02/22/keeping-seed-diversity-afloat-arks-and-rafts/</link>
		<comments>http://www.porchsideecology.com/blog/2009/02/22/keeping-seed-diversity-afloat-arks-and-rafts/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 22 Feb 2009 08:02:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Edible Landscapes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ark of Taste]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[foodshed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lettuce]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[RAFT]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[seeds]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soil]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[water]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://porchsideecology.com/abundance/?p=101</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
drying Daikon radish seeds

<p> I&#8217;d like to introduce you to my favorite plant in the garden at the moment. It is Bronze Arrow lettuce grown from seed that I received in a seed swap at the 2008 Bioneers conference. A California heirloom variety, it is my first step towards bringing in heritage varieties into my [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="shashin_image" style="width: 160px; float: none;"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-QviqkoMRk8E/Sli-e2l-1MI/AAAAAAAAA-w/VZ7ygI2Fa4E/IMG_4507.JPG?imgmax=640" class="highslide" id="shashin_thumb_link_38" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-QviqkoMRk8E/Sli-e2l-1MI/AAAAAAAAA-w/VZ7ygI2Fa4E/IMG_4507.JPG?imgmax=200" alt="drying Daikon radish seeds" width="150" height="200" id="shashin_thumb_image_38" title="drying Daikon radish seeds" /></a>
<div class="highslide-caption">drying Daikon radish seeds</div>
</div>
<p> I&#8217;d like to introduce you to my favorite plant in the garden at the moment. It is Bronze Arrow lettuce grown from seed that I received in a seed swap at the 2008 Bioneers conference. A California heirloom variety, it is my first step towards bringing in heritage varieties into my garden. While at the Bioneers conference, I also had the pleasure of listening to a local foodshed panel with <a href="http://www.garynabhan.com/">Gary Nabhan</a>, <a href="http://www.rocfund.org/blogs/michael-r.-dimock-s-blog/">Michael Dimock</a> and <a href="http://www.wildfarmalliance.org/about/staff.htm">Jo Ann Baumgartner </a>. It was there that I was introduced to the concept of a <a href="http://www.foodroutes.org/faq14.jsp">foodshed</a> and the need to strengthen local foodsheds as a way to work towards more sustainable communities.</p>
<p>That was just a few months ago and the issues like food security and diversity were inspiring but didn&#8217;t feel extremely urgent. Yet as drought continues to hammer us, the federal water supply is planned to be <a href="http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5jRq52nOBAO6RNu2DFELz1lyhiOXAD96FNO4O0"> cut off </a> to California farms in March and the fragility of our food system starts to show through. Suddenly local resilience has an obvious and pressing appeal. Especially when staring at the fact that California produces over half of the nations vegetables, fruits, and nuts. If our drought persists, the prices for produce will creep up, further aggravate the current economic quagmire and push people deeper into the cheaper, less healthy processed foods that already dominate our diet.</p>
<p>It doesn&#8217;t have to be that way though, our gardens and community spaces provide so many answers as we gaze down the road at the continued drought and further in the distance (probably much closer than we would like) at declining soil, increased competition for oil, an uncertain climate and a finite global water supply. As a way to spread out safety nets and mitigate these tough challenges, we have to grow more food locally. A huge part of that involves growing varieties local or adapted to our area. Local heritage varieties have stood the test of time and thrive in the local growing conditions while resisting local diseases and pests. They bring great resilience to our food supply. I personally can&#8217;t wait to get the rest of my seed swap goodies into the ground so that I can do my part to carry on the tradition, and keep our seed supply flowing.</p>
<p>For those interested, here are a few great ways to find local and national heritage varieties:</p>
<p>Local seed swaps are an excellent place to start, as the seeds that are being exchanged have stood the test of your bioregion, and were deemed worthy of exchange by the person who brought them and you may be able to glean growing tips as well. If you can, be sure to bring your own seed successes to share when you go and keep the cross pollination going!</p>
<p>Check out the <a href="http://www.slowfoodusa.org/index.php/programs/details/ark_of_taste/">Ark of Taste</a>! The wonderful people at Slow Food USA have drawn up a list of foods that are US heritage foods with superb flavor. There is a list of foods by region so see what pops up for your state.</p>
<p>For those of you in California, be sure to check out this publication of <a href="http://www.slowfoodusa.org/downloads/CA_RAFT_rev_Jan_09_2.pdf"> California RAFT foods </a>(pdf) to discover California foods that are at risk. Since they are &#8220;at risk&#8221;, these may be difficult to find. If you are growing ANY of the plants on this list, please, please, please let me know!!! (Email me: chris at porchsideecology dot com). I am trying to find people who have these varieties. For more information on Renewing America&#8217;s Food Traditions (RAFT) you can check out <a href="http://www.environment.nau.edu/raft/"> their website</a>.</p>
<p>If you are looking for Monsanto-free, organic, non-GMO, heirloom seeds: a good resource is <a href="http://www.freedomseeds.org/"> Freedom Seeds </a>. The Dervaes down in SoCal have put a lot of hard work to compile and package a catalog of seeds that promote seed sovereignty.The website is still in the works, but they are currently taking seed orders. I&#8217;ve been a big fan of the Dervaes for a while now and when I found out about their seed project, I ordered a few packets of seeds to support the cause and try out some new things. Their service was fast and my seeds are sprouting away.</p>
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