Garlic harvest officially a success. In the picture above are a few of the plants, total harvest is over 40 bunches of garlic. An excellent yield considering where they were planted.

It is always nice when an experiment works. With two terriers who love to tear around (and into) the yard, it is always a challenge [...]]]>

Garlic harvest officially a success. In the picture above are a few of the plants, total harvest is over 40 bunches of garlic. An excellent yield considering where they were planted.

It is always nice when an experiment works. With two terriers who love to tear around (and into) the yard, it is always a challenge to design planting arrangements that will stay intact. If there is soft exposed soil, they will dig into it with relish.. They are agile jumpers and eternally curious, so raised beds with exposed soil are just as vulnerable. Fencing off parts of the yard tends to be ugly, interrupting both visual flow as well as physical movement and access. My dogs are very careful about where they place their paws, however they aren’t so careful with their bodies…rather, if they know that something will give they have no problem crashing into it. They respect hard or thorny plants, but if they can crash and thrash through soft branches or leafy material, they will. Sam particularly seems to enjoy it. So, I had an idea as garlic planting season approached. Around one of my raised beds that I planted potatoes in, I dug up a border of soil and then as part of the border, I used broken concrete to create a bit of a mosaic. In between the cracks I placed garlic cloves. Even if the dogs wanted to walk on the border, they would not compact the earth any more than the concrete already would. They would keep their paws on the concrete and so the garlic would be able to grow up even if they walked “on” it. They would not break the garlic stalks because they would prefer to jump over the border rather than galloping on top of it. So it could handle both calm ambling dogs and hyper spazzing dogs equally.

Amazingly it worked. They often jumped into the raised bed avoiding forceful contact with the garlic when it was young. As the garlic grew older they avoided jumping over it at all since the bed itself was off to the side of their path and not worth the effort. Ironically when the border was first created, they were thrilled with their new and improved walkway. However, even with increased dog traffic, the garlic shoots came up unharmed. I don’t think I lost a single garlic plant to dog paws.

The bed of potatoes, on the other hand, was mostly destroyed. Little rascals.

A little over one year has passed since we bought the place, and, whether intentionally or not I have been in a bit of a holding pattern. However, the pattern has worn very thin and I am growing impatient with myself. Even as a good permie, iit is time to get a move on…the initial [...]]]>

A little over one year has passed since we bought the place, and, whether intentionally or not I have been in a bit of a holding pattern. However, the pattern has worn very thin and I am growing impatient with myself. Even as a good permie, iit is time to get a move on…the initial observation cycle is now over. It is time to get busy, get comfortable with solidifying my ideas and start actually putting the pieces of the puzzle onto paper and into the ground.

I don’t have any real answer for why I have been slow to get to this point. Even risking the anger and frustration of my wife as “nothing happens”, I felt blocked and uncertain. That doesn’t mean I haven’t been toying with ideas, but nothing has really been clicking. I remember a wonderful interview I heard a while back about the creative process in which the “Eat, Pray, Love” author Elizabeth Gilbert was talking about how creativity requires a whole toolbox of tactics. Sometimes words have to be wrestled, sometimes coaxed, sometimes teased, sometimes seduced into existence. I feel that way with this design, and it has been frustrating at times because I see bits and pieces of possibility but there has been no “Ah HA!” moment.

However, over the last few weeks there has been one patch of the garden that I planted right when we moved in and this year it is “coming into its own” just like I had planned. It’s nothing spectacular, but it does lift me up every day when I brush against the leaves, when I pick the herbs and as I watch life at work. And I am reminded to be patient, start with what makes sense and what is doable, be willing to experiment and make spectacular mistakes and everything will come together (one way or another!) in the end.

I had a serendipitous moment this morning. It was still pitch dark outside, but I woke up [...]]]>

An experiment in quickly creating patches of deep, abundant, living soil and long term fertility in the organic garden.

I had a serendipitous moment this morning. It was still pitch dark outside, but I woke up and couldn’t go back to sleep, my mind was churning away at all sorts of stuff, some important, some annoyingly trivial (WHY am I awake again?). But ultimately my roving brain pulled together a few puzzles out of the nether and tied them together: there were some buckets of food scraps that needed to be dealt with, some seedlings in soil blocks that probably wanted to get started in real soil, and a bunch of information on soil, fertility, nutrient cycles that I wanted to put to use. All of that suddenly synergized into a darn good little idea. Fertility pockets.

First some background.

A while back my mom and I were talking about how we dealt with compost. At the time I was all pumped on aerated compost and how it was possible to create a real rich compost in less than three weeks (which involves almost daily turning). She thought it sounded interesting, but said she was going to stick to her method which was to simply throw her food scraps in a hole in the ground for a while then cover it up with soil when the hole was full. She said that it broke down remarkably fast without much effort on her part. I tried the aerobic compost route and did in fact achieve a nice rich compost within a month. But the process always felt….off. It was awesome to create soil so quickly, but I knew that with each pile turn I was exposing all these microbes to the air which were then going on a feeding frenzy and drying out, dying, and releasing who knows what into kind of carbon into the air. Then what happens with this compost? It usually gets top dressed onto soil of lesser quality. They call this feeding the soil…and to some extent it is, but what a waste! Here is this unbelievably rich soil that has been created, and it gets thrown on top? The most precious part of that soil is the amazing amount life that is now living in it. By throwing it on top, the moisture and rich life will die off, killed by sun and eroded by wind. So in the back of my mind the aerobic, compost turning method seemed to have it’s own set of issues, on top of being time/energy intensive. Without adequate moisture and mulching, that effort of creating such beautiful thriving soil simply goes to waste.

To go a little further into the moisture story, I want to pass on one of the most fascinating stories that I heard recently. I heard it at my advanced permaculture design course in July with Robyn Francis. I THINK this was work that Robyn Francis was part of. In India recently they did a special planting method for a forest plantation of various trees. The method was to dig the hole for the tree, fill the hole with water, let the water soak in, fill the hole with water a second time, let it soak in again then plant the tree and (if I remember correctly) water it in. I’m not sure how heavily the trees were mulched with organic matter, but I do remember the area around the tree was mulched with rocks which would capture moisture from the air. That region was hit by a pretty severe drought that year and the trees were not watered at all beyond the initial planting. However, they only lost a handful (literally) of trees from among thousands. Between the mulch and the moisture already embedded in the soil from the double deep watering, the trees had enough to survive.

So, right, back to these buckets of goopy, stinky food scraps that I had collected from a downtown vegan restaurant. The scraps were intended for worm bins at Veggielution, but for a while now the worm bins have been overloaded and pretty foul smelling. So I needed to figure out a way that I could use these food scraps while Veggielution volunteers built a couple more worm bins. So this morning I realized that I could use all of that concentrated, nutritious goodness to create little areas of abundant fertility within my garden, which I am calling Fertility Pockets.

They are nothing complex, nor really anything new, but when I see how they fit into the grand (hah) scheme of the garden, I think it is an elegant solution that requires a one time soil disturbance with long lasting rewards. The basic method is to dig a reasonably deep hole, take a nutrient soup, (like the buckets of food scraps, or anaerobic buckets of compost that have been fermenting in their own juice, yum!, or possibly the weeds that you have submerged under water to kill off), and fill the hole with layers of soup, carbonaceous material and soil (a layered compost basically) and cover the hole with the remaining soil. This will form a small mound which should be planted into immediately with something that would enjoy a rich bacteria-dominated soil (I used kale and broccoli).

This Fertility Pocket method is an experiment and might have some unexpected results, but based on a lot of reading and observation of soil in my own garden here is what I expect to happen. By filling a hole with organic matter high in moisture content and nutrient rich water, in most soils this moisture will very slowly leach out over time. This water that drains into the surrounding area will be high in nutrients and organic matter. The organic matter in the hole will slowly decompose over the following months, functioning as a time release fertilizer and creating an abundant, deep, moist, living soil. The layering of organic matter and soil distributes soil microbes evenly throughout the hole and creates aeration so the soil can breath. As long as this soil is not disturbed and is well shaded by plants and/or mulch, the nutrients will continue to cycle between the soil and the plants who will eagerly send their roots into the newly created treasure trove. By doing just a modest hole, rather than say a double-dug swath or a rototilled patch, this allows everything around the hole to remain undisturbed. Mycelia, microbes, worms and plant roots can all start to move in as moisture radiates out and as nutrients are broken down and made available.

Here was the process I followed this morning:

I dug about a foot down and hit a firm layer of rocky sub-soil.

Quinoa

quinoa harvest!

I widened the hole from there until it formed a rough bowl that would hold two buckets worth of soup plus some layers of soil.

drying quinoa seed heads

I threw some weeds in down at the bottom to decompose. The bottom of the hole is probably going to be pretty anaerobic for a week or so (just a guess) and it is deep enough so that even if the seeds do not rot away, they are too deep to surface.

backyard overview

I poured some food scraps on top of the weeds and added a layer of soil. The soupier the better for this part I think.

6 month old hugelkultur bed lined with bamboo

Added dried out corn stalks and dried grass and other carbon rich stuff.
Added another layer of food scraps (by now the mixture was pretty much a stinky bowl of mud soup) and the rest of the soil

Bronze Arrow lettuce (California heirloom)

The remaining soil should form a mound. I planted garlic chives, Egyptian walking onions, broccoli, and kale into the mound. The annual brassicas are for immediate capture of whatever nutrients are readily available, the chives and onions will stick around to anchor the soil while I decide what other perennials to add to the mix. I am not too concerned about nutrient lost though, because there is a neighboring maturing broccoli and fruit trees that will probably send their roots over to check out the moisture and the nutrient cocktail.

the berry box: five bare root raspberry canes (Carolina) planted in the box, with strawberries planted in the holes. Blueberry (Bluecrop) planted in peat mound next to box. This planting is a bit risky as there are a lot of leaves in the box mixed in with soil and compost. They could compact and prevent water….or they could decompose and retain a lot of water, we’ll see.

cool season bouquet (fava and rapini). The rapini is too bitter to eat so I let it flower

As a final touch I threw small handfuls of Azomite down to add additional nutrients and trace minerals. Since this is not a renewable source of fertility, I put it at the top to be watered in over time. My hope is that as the plants and the soil organisms kick into gear they will trap most of these trace nutrients and prevent them from leaching beyond the pocket.

I HOPE this is Hypsizygus ulmarius Garden Patch mycelium

Overall the process took me less than 45 minutes and it could have a positive payout for years, especially if the soil remains undisturbed (no tilling!), mulch is added as a top dressing and perennials are planted into the pocket after the broccoli harvest. If I plant a perennial polyculture around the pocket, the nutrients could cycle within that small ecosystem indefinitely. I’ll be doing a few more of these in the garden and will report back on the results after the pockets have had the chance to break down and the plant patches mature over the following year.

This was one of my experiments this year that was quite successful. I have been working towards a lower maintenance, more self-sustaining garden design, and as a low-fuss, high value annual, quinoa has definitely earned a place as one of my preferred edible plants.

Since it has been so [...]]]>

Botanical Name: Chenopodium quinoa

This was one of my experiments this year that was quite successful. I have been working towards a lower maintenance, more self-sustaining garden design, and as a low-fuss, high value annual, quinoa has definitely earned a place as one of my preferred edible plants.

Since it has been so successful, I frequently mention it if someone asks what I have in my garden. A common response is “Quin..what?”. My wife and I had our first quinoa dish (a delicious soup) prepared for us by our host family in Ecuador, and we wondered what that little curly grain-looking stuff was. We were told it was quinoa, and after we returned to the US and I learned more about it I wondered if I shouldn’t try my hand at growing it. The seed (it’s not technically a grain) produced by the quinoa plant is highly nutritious and has the rare distinction of being a complete protein. It was a highly valued, sacred crop of the Incas. The leaves are also edible and have a flavor and consistency similar to spinach. For more general information about quinoa check out this Wikipedia article, you can read growing/harvest/preparation information, or you can learn more about specific nutritional benefits.

Lemon Thyme (Thymus citriodorus variegata)

Lemon Thyme (Thymus citriodorus variegata)

Growth Habit:

Quinoa has a very narrow, upright growth habit with somewhat sparse foliage, growing up to eight feet tall depending on variety and soil fertility and water. For the small amount of space it takes up, a healthy quinoa plant can produce a significant amount of seed. I was growing amaranth, quinoa and corn in a small 2’ x 3’ patch and even with all the competition the 3 quinoa plants I grew produced about 1/4 – 1/2 pound of seed per plant, with the plants themselves growing between six and eight feet high.

Growing Quinoa:

This is the primary reason why I am so excited about quinoa. It was by far my most maintenance free annual this year. I got some seed from the Bioneers seed swap, and in May, I threw the seed on some moist ground and it quickly germinated, took a little while to get established then started growing vigorously. My quinoa received fairly consistent water, but it is a drought resistant crop and if established well initially will produce a healthy harvest even in dry conditions. This suits our Mediterranean climate perfectly, and I will be experimenting more with drought tolerance in the future. In addition to these benefits, the seed heads are covered by saponins, ensuring that your harvest is protected from most pests. It also means that quinoa requires soaking and rinsing before cooking to remove the toxic saponin, but the extra cooking preparation is a small price to pay for how easy it is to grow, harvest and process.

Since quinoa is not widely grown in the US, it is hard to say which climates would be difficult to grow quinoa in. It prefers warm days and cool nights in order to set seed, and like spinach may not germinate if conditions get too warm. Its original habitat is the Andean highlands of Peru, Ecuador and Bolivia, which tend to have fairly moderate climates.

If the seed heads get top heavy like they did with the variety I grew, some wind protection or support may be necessary if planting in a windy area.

Quinoa in the Edible Landscape or Food Forest:

The primary benefits that quinoa bring to the garden are its low maintenance, drought resistance and minimal space requirements. On top of that it brings two sources of highly nutritious food, greens from the young plants and seeds in the late summer/fall. It will also readily reseed itself, which is a blessing if you site the plant with that in mind, a curse if it was not your plan to grow quinoa every year. The plant stalks, like corn stalks, make great dry carbonaceous material for the compost pile or mulch…just be sure you don’t mulch or compost with the seed heads or you’ll probably have quinoa popping up everywhere!

Aesthetically, the plant itself is not much to write home about. It resembles lambs quarters when it is young, with pleasant green leaves that have a faint silver shimmer to them. As it matures and starts to put more energy into seed production it tends to grow leggy and may start to lean under the heavy seed burden. So if aesthetics are a concern, either some support might be needed, or choose a sunny out-of-sight corner since the plants may start to flop around and look unsightly. As they matured in early August, the seed heads on my quinoa went through a wonderful color change from green to gold, red, pink, very much like how a sugar maple changes in the fall. So, while the plant itself can get a bit gangly and awkward as it matures, it can exit with a bang. This might be dependant on variety, and I’m not sure what variety I’m currently growing. It sure was beautiful though!

I will be experimenting a lot with quinoa in the future, there are so many benefits to this plant that I am very surprised it is not more commonly grown here in Northern America. It may be that varieties have not yet been developed for our various climates, but hopefully more work will be done in this direction in the future. It’s delicious, and it is a very valuable crop to have, especially for vegans.

Title: Edible Forest Gardens – Volume One: Vision and Theory Authors: Dave Jacke with Eric Toensmeier Publisher: Chelsea Green

My Experience:

I am a pretty voracious and quick reader, but it took me several months to work my way through Volume I. The writing style of the authors is very readable, and the content is fascinating and information rich, [...]]]>

Title: Edible Forest Gardens – Volume One: Vision and Theory
Authors: Dave Jacke with Eric Toensmeier
Publisher: Chelsea Green

My Experience:

I am a pretty voracious and quick reader, but it took me several months to work my way through Volume I. The writing style of the authors is very readable, and the content is fascinating and information rich, but as the title indicates it is a book on food forest THEORY, which means diving deeply into ecological theory and forest structure. While reading Volume I, I found myself often distracted by other, more “hands-on” literature, so I would read a few chapters of Volume I and then dive off for a brief affair with another book, only to return to Forest Gardens a few weeks later to take on another chapter. It took me a while to get through it but I am deeply, deeply grateful to the authors for putting together such an incredible resource. I think they wove a good balance between discussing the broader theory on forest dynamics, while zooming in to particular topics, such as vegetation layers, soil, roots, etc. I would highly recommend this book to those that are really serious about designing their landscapes, farms, or acreage as an ecosystem. It is a wealth of information and the authors have done an excellent job of providing the theoretical framework behind edible food forest design. For those of you that have a more casual approach to gardening and landscaping, or for those that just want some practical examples up front, Volume I might be more than you want to take on. I am just starting to delve into Volume II, which puts theory into practice and might be more geared towards folks that just want to read some instructions and dive in. I’ll be sure to report back when I have completed Volume II.

What I enjoyed:

Chapter 5 “Structures of the Underground Economy”: This chapter is by far the best thing I have read about soil, roots, nutrient cycles and fertility. It provides a broad scale view of the whole “underground economy”, yet also packs in an incredible amount of specific information on the different “engines” of the economy (microbes, roots, fungi, etc). It condenses much of the information that I have read over several books, articles, etc into one integrated framework without watering down or excluding vital information. It is truly a remarkable source of information on the world beneath our feet.

Analysis of Existing Food Forests: The authors take three existing food forests (one of which is Robert Hart’s forest garden) and they offer respectful critiques on what is working in the system, and where things could be better. It was nice to have the concrete examples to reference and anchor the theoretical and conceptual information that they were laying out.

Rethinking invasive species. There were two large sidebars devoted to the analysis and discussion of “invasion biology” that broadened my perspective on the contentious issues surrounding invasive species. They criticize the tendency to blame the individual “invader” and instead encourage a deeper analysis of what root causes allowed the “invasion” in the first place (human disruption might be a good first start!).

Everything Else! There is so much information in this book, and even though it gets pretty deep into theory and concepts, it is written at a level that is accessible to your average (but determined) reader.